Review: The Lost Angel and Gaslight Grill, Battersea


Flavoured vodka is the pub’s speciality.


By Joe Short

Autumn is here. You can smell it in the air, feel it on your face and taste it on restaurant menus. While the rain draws in those dank, miserable nights, pubs turn on their central heating to create the delightful cosy closeness of an autumn afternoon.

The Lost Angel and Gaslight Grill – to give it its full title – is no different. On a sodden Sunday lunchtime we trudged through Battersea Park heading for the comfort of warm shelter and fine food.

Thankfully, we got both.

The Angel and Gaslight is one of those pubs with a restaurant attached yet there is a feeling of cohesion between the two. There is no partition that would otherwise suggest independent companies sharing the same space to cut the costs – no, this place thrives on the freedom of choice you get when dining.

We were offered a pub lunch in vast bar area, accompanied by live music and intriguing décor – or we could waltz into the equally eye-opening dining room for a proper restaurant experience. We chose the latter.

Sundays means roasts in the Angel and Gaslight, so I opted for their lamb. To be frank, the roast itself was a nailed-on flat bat. It was a solid two-run cover drive, nothing spectacular but by no means unappetising. Yet what really made the dish was its hidden spiced carrot mash, tucked beneath the lamb, potatoes and giant Yorkshire pudding. The carrot acted as a lubricant for these otherwise individual ingredients, blending the dish together into a thoroughly enjoyable meal. Six!

Across the table, a 350g steak was being carved up much to my partner’s delight. Ollie, our guide for the day, recommended the steaks for their crisp, seared exterior with a creamy core. Add to this a choice of three exotic dips – smoky Bowmore whiskey, garlic and chive aioli and a Bloody Mary concoction – and you’re set for an interactive meal that offers a new sensation on every bite.

To set us up for these delightful mains, a squid and tomato tart of filo pastry presented itself to me while three shocked tuna steaks sat atop canapé bread beds across the table. If you’re a tomato fan you will devour the squad as quickly as I did, with the added sundried fruit hidden among the richness of colour. The pastry was set to perfection and did not overpower the dish – a sign of a light, healthy starter.

As for drinks, we were a little too scared to sample the Angel and Gaslight’s signature tipple but the process of its creation was nevertheless fascinating. Flavouring vodka takes time and effort, so the bottle of horseradish vodka sitting on the bar intrigued us. Turns out its part of the Angel’s Bloody Mary special – effectively a free bar for a set price where you can drink all the flavoured Marys you like.

Ollie explained how the process of flavouring often take days and their experiments range herbs and spices to more unconventional combinations – anyone for bacon vodka?

We stuck to wine – the restaurant boasts an extensive list that isn’t overly expensive – and shared a comforting fruit tart for afters. Was it marzipan or just thick sugar paste embedded in the tart? Who knows, it was delicious anyway.

The warmth and good feeling of the Angel more than makes up for the terrible weather, which we dared venture out into once our palettes were satisfied and stomachs satiated. At around £7 a starter and £14 for a roast, it isn’t the cheapest dining experience in SW London but is certainly an exceptional one worth sampling.

The Lost Angel and Gaslight Grill, 339 Battersea Park Rd, SW11 4LS, 0207 622 2112

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