Food & Drink
Two images side by side. One of Lucy aged 11 and one of Lucy aged 31 with her mum. In the younger image on the left Lucy is wearing a pink scarf, has her brown hair in low bunchies and is holding a green birthday balloon. On the right Lucy has a much bigger smile, just like her mum, as they pose for a selfie.

REVIEW: The Althorp, SW18, 20 years on

It’s not often a work event leads to digging out your childhood photo albums, but when I was asked to review the restaurant where I held 11th birthday party, I did exactly that.

The Althorp on Bellevue Road recently reopened its doors following refurbishment, with a new seasonal British menu alongside suitably summery spritz cocktails.

The aim was to carefully restore the Wandsworth Common local, to celebrate the pub’s heritage with modern touches.

Me, Lucy, and my mum, Carol, smiling for a selfie at The Althorp on Bellevue Road. I have shoulder length brown hair, am wearing a black top and a grey cardigan. Mum has short brown/red hair, is wearing red glasses and is wearing a blue dress and a white cotton light jacket. You can see mum is holding a wine glass. We look cute.
Me and my mum, Carol, at The Althorp, SW18, in 2025

Amusingly, I remember this newly-refurbished Young’s pub as Dexter’s Grill, where my primary school friends and family celebrated by birthday, against the back drop of an old fashioned sweet shop in what is now The Common Room at The Althorp.

It seems the pub has grown up with me, and where the sweet shop once was, there is an additional bar.

11-year-old Lucy with low bunchies and a green zip-up jacket in front of an old fashioned sweet store in a pub on Bellevue Road.
11-year-old Lucy at Dexter’s Grill in 2005, now The Althorp

So 20 years later, I headed back to The Althorp.

Depending on the vibe you are after, there’s a section of this pub for everyone.

We were offered seats outside in the chilly late afternoon sun, the front bar area, which was definitely the busiest, or the back area with it’s own bar and big screen TV.

We opted to watch Arsenal thrash Leeds 5-0 alongside our wholesome meal in the back room.

You can see more about the different event spaces – The Snug and The Common Room – here.

We were in The Common Room, which was relatively quiet, and has it’s own bar, away from the hustle and bustle of the front of the pub.

I started my meal with a healthy and hearty portion of pea & mint humous while mum had the crispy squid.

My mum Carol posing with her bowl of scampi for starter at the dinner table at The Althorp. Mum has short brown/red hair and red glasses. She is smiling for the camera. You can see she is wearing a blue dress and a white cotton light jacket.
The crispy squid was served with lemon and coriander mayo, chilli and spring onion

My generous portion was fresh and full of flavour. The gorgeously green humous was topped with cucumber, carrots and radishes, and a side of focaccia.

Needing to leave room for two more courses, I did have to sacrifice some radishes.

A plate of pea and mint humous with cucumber, carrots and radishes on top, and a side of focaccia. It looks fresh and crunchy.
As a very fussy vegetarian it was nice to an option without mushrooms

Sticking with the green theme, I opted for the confit garlic pesto gnocchi. While it was nice to see more vegetables I like (no aubergines, mushrooms or courgettes), this was the only vegetarian option that wasn’t a plant-based burger.

Although I should note ‘day boat fish’ and ‘pie of the day’ are also in the menu.

A bowl of confit garlic pesto gnocchi with peas, broad beans, purple sprouting broccoli and almonds.
The confit garlic pesto gnocchi came with peas, broad beans, purple sprouting broccoli and almonds

Now admittedly, I don’t have the best track record with gnocchi (see below) but this was one of the better gnocchi dishes I’ve had.

The smell of garlic was the star of the show. And the al dente peas, broad beans and purple sprouting broccoli were filling and flavoursome. Was gnocchi the best choice of carb? I’m undecided. 

Although Young’s pubs have a reputation of being on the pricier side, I was still shocked to see my vegetarian confit garlic pesto gnocchi was more expensive than my mum’s order of pork, leek & apple sausages.

Talking of mum’s main meal – it was really decently sized and mum really enjoyed it.

The sausages were served with crushed new potatoes, hispi cabbage, pork crackling and gravy.

A picture of my mum Carol looking at her bowl of pork, leek & apple sausages, with crushed new potatoes, hispi cabbage, pork crackling and gravy at The Althorp. Mum has short brown/red hair and red glasses. You can see she is wearing a blue dress and a white cotton light jacket.
Find someone who looks at you the way my mum is looking at her free dinner

For pudding I opted for the peach & apricot crumble which was delicious. I may not be a gnocchi convert but I am a crumble convert and I loved the choice of peach and apricot over a more traditional apple and blackcurrant, for example.

The crumble came with a side of vanilla ice cream.

An oval dish full of peach & apricot crumble and a side of vanilla ice cream.
Potentially a little light on the crumble

The only real let down was mum’s triple chocolate brownie (the only dish of mum’s I was actually able to try) as it was a bit claggy.

A plate with a brownie and a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top at The Althorp.
Mum was sick of me taking pictures of her by this point

During our meal, our attentive waiter also chose two bottles of white wine for us which went down a treat.

An 11-year-old Lucy at Dexter's Grill wearing a blue t-shirt, a denim skirt and spotty tights. I am standing and smiling for the camera holding three balloons.
I hear these tights are making a comeback

You might like – REVIEW: wagamama’s delicious new summer menu

Images courtesy of Lucy Dyer

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